The first-time visitor to Ponta Delgada is struck by the colonial atmosphere of the city, somewhere between continental Portugal and South America. The main port and São Miguel’s capital owes its name to the sharp rocky point near which it stands. It is a very picturesque town seen in its entirety as the ship enters the port, lying against a fine background of green hills of São Miguel island. Long straight streets open onto handsome squares and avenues, lined with black and white mosaic pavements and elegant old houses. Compared with Angra do Heroismo in Terceira before the earthquake, Ponta Delgada has fewer grand mansions or monuments, but it does possess a certain dignified style, as yet unmarred by modern architectural monstrosities like towering office blocks or garish commercial advertisements.
Modern Ponta Delgada owes much of is prosperity to the artificial port. Construction of the long breakwater, the Doca or Muelle do Porto, was begun in the last century, but it only acquired its present length (over three-quarters of a mile) in 1965. Calm waters inside the breakwater reflect the images of visiting ships, naval vessels, merchant shipping, everything down to a small yachts boldly making the transatlantic crossing. A long promenade follows the waterfront along Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, a breezy stroll past offices and hotels. At the east end of the Avenida there’s a public swimming pool overlooked by the 17th-century Igreja de Sao Pedro (Church of St Peter) and the gracious Hotel de Sao Pedro, formerly a convent attached to the church.
The ‘mother church’ or Igreja Matriz dedicated to Sao Sebastiao, stands a few yards back from the waterfront in the centre of town. Dating from the early 16th century, it has been enlarged and rebuilt throughout the passing years, but still displays some pleasing original features such as the manueline arches and baroque portals. Between the church and the Avenida do Infante stand the three lonely Arcos da Cidade (Arches of the City), erected in 1783. These formerly stood sideways on to the church, linking it to the 17th-century Pacos do Concelho, the Town Hall, but were transferred to their present position in 1948 when the Avenida do Infante was being laid out. The small square, in which they stand, Praca de Goncalo Velho, is named in honour of the centre of the square in 1956. In front of the Paws do Concelho stands another statue of particular relevance – São Miguel Arcimjel (Archangel Michael) for whom the island was named.
The Igreja Matriz acts as a sort of imposing traffic island in the middle of Largo da Matriz, onto which half a dozen narrow streets open out. The main shopping area of Ponta Delgada is to the north and west, but heading east for the moment we follow the Rua do Mercado past the Teatro Micaelense to the Mercado itself, the main market of São Miguel. Still heading east past the excellent restaurant Solar da Graca on the right, Rua do Mercado becomes Rua do Peru; a left turn here takes you up towards the hillock and chapel of Mae de Deus (`Mother of God’). The present 20th-century building replaced an earlier chapel dating from 1547 which was demolished in 1914.
Now turning west along Rua de Mae de Deus, on your right is the University of the Azores, set in a large overgrown estate. It started as a university institute in 1976 and was promoted to its present status in July 1980, the only Portuguese university outside Portugal. Still heading west you soon reach the small square full of flowers and tall trees, Jardim Antero de Quental, one of the few green corners actually in the city. Facing onto the Jardim is the superb baroque facade of the Colegio Todos os Santos. Dating from 1592, the Colegio was originally a Jesuit institution housing a beautiful early 18th-century altarpiece and fine azulejo panelling and a collection of religious works.
Just below the Colegio stands one of the Azores’ few museums, Museu Carlos Machado — well worth a visit. It stands amid pretty gardens in a beautiful 16th-century building that was once a convent; Carlos Machado, whose bust greets visitors to the museum, was the 19th-century scientist who founded the institution. One room contains a life-size reconstruction of a typical rural dwelling in São Miguel such as can still be found today in certain outlying areas, and comes complete with every last detail, including a chamber pot beneath the bed. And there are displays of traditional costume, folk art, even examples of the island’s early vehicles, from litters for carrying the local bigwig through muddy streets to 19th-century penny farthings.
Last but by no means least comes the pride of São Miguel, almost the most important building in the whole archipelago – the Convento da Esperanca. Facing south across the Praca 5 do Outubro to the 16th-century fortress of Forte de Siio Bras, convent and church, dates from 1541 and besides being a sumptuous building in its own right houses the sanctuary wherein is kept the venerated image of Santo Cristo. The story behind this image is hard to verify but tradition has it that it was given to nuns from nearby Caloura by Pope Paul III in 1536, and they brought it to the city for safekeeping and protection from pirate raids. It was credited with numerous miracles, from halting lava flows to curing acne, and is still considered today as the religious focal point of the Azores, reverently displayed to the public on only one day a year – Whit Sunday.
