One of the most interesting excursions in Santa Maria is to the north coast around the little fishing port of Anjos. This was the site of the first church in the Azores, originally just a primitive wooden building thatched with straw, but by the early 1470s it was solidly constructed of local stone. When Columbus was sailing home from the Indies in February 1493, his ships met fierce storms off the Azores and he found shelter in Santa Maria.
He and his men had vowed to say mass at Anjos in thanks for their safe delivery from the sea, but while making their way to the chapel the crew were seized by the colonists and only after some bitter wrangling did they manage to regain their freedom. The Ermida de Nossa Senhora de Anjos, to give the chapel its official title, has been rebuilt since Columbus came (late 17th-century) but it has a pleasing simplicity that he might well recognize today. Inside are more of those lovely azulejos (18th century), a fine 16th-century triptych and an image of Our Lady that is said to have been brought to the island by Goncalo Velho himself in 1427 on his initial voyage to the Azores.
The central mountains, collectively known as the Picos, include Pico Alto, just under 2,000 ft, with a miradouro right at the top (you can drive up) offering splendid panoramic views over the whole island of Santa Maria. Heading east towards the coast through the tidy cluster of houses that constitute the village of Santa Barbara (notice the fat chimneys, a typical feature of domestic architecture in this island), there is another delightful belvedere, Miradoura da Espigio. There’s running water here for the convenience of picnickers, overlooking the beautiful bay and straggling village of Silo Lourenco.
Surrounding the bay is a semicircle of steep green hills which appear to reflect the rippling blue ocean. It’s no illusion though, merely the result of labour-intensive efforts to build row upon row of narrow terraces and vineyards all the way up the hillsides. At Maia on the south-eastern coast there are yet more astonishing views over steep flowery slopes down to the sea, especially from above the lighthouse, Farol de Goncalo Velho. Even here the rocky hillside has been neatly terraced for cultivation.
From Maia, the road back to Porto passes through the rural splendours of Santo Espirito with a 16th-century chapel to St Anthony in the typical simple style of Santa Maria’s many small chapels. Another tiny chapel worth looking out for is the Ermida de Nossa Senhora de Fatima at Sao Pedro. Built in the 1920s it nevertheless matches the older buildings in architectural style, but to reach it you have to climb 150 steps, as it’s located right at the top of a steep hill, as if to oblige pilgrims to prove their physical if not their moral fortitude.
On the south coast, a final excursion follows a twisty road down to Praia, named for its beach, a glorious stretch of fine golden sand with the best swimming in Santa Maria.
