Graciosa’s other main port is Vila da Praia, south from Santa Cruz, surrounded by a regular patchwork of rectangular yellow and green fields, principally growing cereals. About half a mile off shore lies a little grassy islet, Mitt da Praia, fringed by rocks and white-laced waves. But despite its name, Vila da Praia does not have a good beach, just rather coarse black volcanic sand.
A drive around the island or through the mountains, the highest points are Alto do Sul (1,300 ft) on the rim of the southern crater and Pico do Facho (1,200 ft) passes through numerous tidy little hamlets saved from monotony by their cheerfully painted houses often dominated by a windmill’s tall sails.
Graciosa’s one contribution to the archipelago’s collection of natural wonders is the Furna do Enxofre, ‘Sulphurous Spring’, beneath the crater floor of La Caldeira, easily climbed from Vila de Praia. A good road leads to the foot of the outer slopes of the mountain, which formerly had to be climbed on foot. A big tunnel cuts through the slope ending inside of the enormous crater, 984 foot below the summit. The crater is surrounded by jagged, wild, barren rocks. A path crosses the floor of the crater, beside a small lake, to an excavation in the form of a vertical pit in which a spiral staircase cut into the lava rock, enables visitors to descent to a warm dark grotto and the sulphurous subterranean lake with tepid waters.
Prince Albert of Monaco, who made repeated visits to Graciosa just to see this extraordinary place, supposedly proclaimed it the most beautiful sight a Speleogist could ever hope to see. It’s certainly spectacular, with yellow patches caused by the condensing sulphur fumes and mosses and lichens on the walls, stalagtites reflecting in the water’s surface.
Right at the southern tip of the island there is an attractive village with a difference, Carapacho, famous for its alkaline thermal baths. The balneário or bathhouse allows sufferers of rheumatism and similar complaints to ease their aching joints in the warm waters, whose source lies in the hills surrounding La Caldeira. There’s marvellous fishing to be had round Carapacho, for those who can find someone to hire out a boat, especially round the rocky islet of Ilhéu de Baixo just off the southernmost point.
